When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Conserve this for later on.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process once again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact result whenever.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Starting to Saw:.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is complete.
File to complete.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.