Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you want to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping just undo and duplicate the procedure once again up until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Conserve this for later on.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to complete.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.