A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing whenever.

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to end up.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Repairing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Piercing.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Conserve this for later on.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

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