A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing whenever.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to personal choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Starting to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various accessories including drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an accurate result each time.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to transfer a more complex design onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Conserve this for later on.

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