A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Starting to Saw:.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to move a more complex design onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Conserve this for later.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various attachments including drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process once again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Fixing:.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Piercing.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Troubleshooting:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise outcome each time.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

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