A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to personal preference.

Sawing

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table below consists of all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Conserve this for later on.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories including drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure once again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Repairing:.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Repairing:.

Piercing.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

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