There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise result each time.
Tools for Piercing: There are many different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the procedure once again until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Save this for later on.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.