Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale projects, but the option is down to personal preference.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome each time.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a consistent and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Conserve this for later on.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different accessories including drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Beginning to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.