A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing whenever.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is total.
Submit to finish.

Beginning to Saw:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Fixing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Conserve this for later.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

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