Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale projects, but the option is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to finish.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate result each time.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Conserve this for later on.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.