A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal choice.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Installing a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Fixing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Repairing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Tools for Piercing: There are lots of various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to complete.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.

Save this for later.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

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