Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.
Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
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Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.
Beginning to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.