Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Installing a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Conserve this for later.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complex style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an accurate result every time.
Beginning to Saw:.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.