A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an accurate outcome each time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Starting to Saw:.

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Conserve this for later on.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a gentle and steady action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to complete.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Repairing:.

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