A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to personal choice.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. The table below contains all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

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Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact result whenever.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to finish.

Beginning to Saw:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

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