A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Fixing:.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Conserve this for later on.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is total.
File to complete.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Troubleshooting:.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

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