When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee a precise result each time.
Conserve this for later on.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.