A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to personal choice.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing each time.

Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Conserve this for later.

Fixing:.

Fixing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Beginning to Saw:.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

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