A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Piercing.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact result each time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to complete.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Fixing:.

Repairing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

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The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure once again up until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

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