A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing each time.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging areas.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Fixing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Save this for later on.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Starting to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a consistent and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Repairing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome each time.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

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