A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging areas.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table below contains all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Conserve this for later on.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a consistent and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Fixing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Starting to Saw:.

Piercing.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the process once again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an accurate outcome whenever.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

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