A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal choice.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the info you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

Save this for later on.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Repairing:.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is total.
File to finish.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact result each time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

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