Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult areas.
Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Conserve this for later.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you desire to move a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
Beginning to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact outcome every time.