Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to complete.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Starting to Saw:.