A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing each time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact result each time.

Beginning to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Conserve this for later.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Fixing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to finish.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments including drill bits.

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