A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, but the option is down to individual preference.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Conserve this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Beginning to Saw:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise outcome every time.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a consistent and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Fixing:.

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