A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

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Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Piercing.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Repairing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result each time.

Repairing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

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