A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal choice.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing whenever.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Piercing.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact result whenever.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Fixing:.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is total.
File to end up.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Conserve this for later.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

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