When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you buy.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure once again till its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an exact result each time.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Save this for later.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.