Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing whenever.
Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various accessories including drill bits.
Save this for later on.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a gentle and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the procedure once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.