A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to individual preference.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is total.
File to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise outcome each time.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Conserve this for later.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Fixing:.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Starting to Saw:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

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