A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. The table below consists of all the details you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complicated design onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Save this for later on.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to end up.

Fixing:.

Piercing.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Starting to Saw:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Fixing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

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