A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing each time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a consistent and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to finish.

Starting to Saw:.

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Troubleshooting:.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact outcome each time.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Save this for later on.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

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