Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process again till its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you buy.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Starting to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is complete.
File to finish.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.