Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various attachments including drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Tools for Piercing: There are many different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure once again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you want to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
Starting to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.