Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, but the choice is down to individual choice.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the procedure again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different accessories including drill bits.
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Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Starting to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result each time.