A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to personal choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Beginning to Saw:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
File to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Troubleshooting:.

Conserve this for later.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure once again up until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise result each time.

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