A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult locations.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing each time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Starting to Saw:.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

Repairing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Save this for later on.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

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