A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult locations.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Conserve this for later.

Repairing:.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various attachments including drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Piercing.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Starting to Saw:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is total.
File to complete.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

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