Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.
There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Starting to Saw:.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome whenever.