Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to personal choice.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. The table below includes all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate result each time.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Conserve this for later on.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Beginning to Saw:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.