A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. The table below consists of all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

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My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process once again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to complete.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Troubleshooting:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee a precise outcome whenever.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of various attachments including drill bits.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Fixing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

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