A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for little scale jobs, but the choice is down to personal preference.

Sawing

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Save this for later.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

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