When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal choice.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
File to complete.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Save this for later.
Tools for Piercing: There are many various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure a precise result whenever.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Starting to Saw:.