A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Fixing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an exact result every time.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Save this for later.

Fixing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

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