Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later on.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to end up.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use effectively.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.