A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Conserve this for later on.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Beginning to Saw:.

Fixing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process once again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a stable and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

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