Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing whenever.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Conserve this for later.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to complete.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.