A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal preference.

Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

Troubleshooting:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more complicated design onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Conserve this for later on.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an accurate result whenever.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a gentle and steady action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Repairing:.

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