A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you desire to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Beginning to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure again till its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial range of different attachments including drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an accurate result whenever.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Conserve this for later on.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Repairing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing.

Repairing:.

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